Up-dos as seen at the INIFD shows
Every season the Fashion Scout shows bring us the best and newest designers from the East in a unique multi-designer showcase. This means creating one unique hair ( & makeup) look to suit a multitude of styles. We chatted with Carlos Palma, who created this season hair & makeup looks for the shows and this is what he had to say: “When designing a look for a fashion show I start by doing a lot of research into current trends and in the process anticipating the direction they’ll take so that I can implement them into a look that is fashion forward and not repeating something that is currently a trend. I seem to have a knack for anticipating trends (this comes for 25 years experience in this business), I tend to predict… in some cases with precision and on very few cases a variation.
I look at past trends/looks that have already been done because fashion tends to repeat itself and everything comes full circle, so I find that researching vintage or passed looks is always critical.
Next, I look at the designers collection and get an overall feel for the common thread in the collection which I categorise into different identifying features, for example, organic, structured, architectural, colourful, monochrome etc., these features help me with the colour selection and aesthetics of the hair and makeup look.
In the case of the INIFD show I had to accommodate multiple, variant looks as there were 16 different designers so I broke it down to visually colourful, organic and structured. The makeup represents a more structured/architectural feel as represented by the graphic lines on the face, the splash of yellow on the eyes is a nod to a colour that’s expected to be the upcoming trend for SS19.
The Hair was designed to accentuate the more organic part of the designers collections hence the unstructured look of the hair and the intertwined, random crimping in the hair.
The designers presented collections that reflected their culture and so the colours were quite vibrant and in abundance so the hair and makeup needed to make its own statement (for the sake of impact) but not taking anything away from the collections. It’s very important to me to never make the hair and makeup design about me, I respect the collections and always aim to enhance them but never overpower them.
After I’ve settled on an idea I create moodboards where I have actually photoshopped makeup ideas into images so that the hair and makeup team have guidelines to execute them on the day of the show. I also do a day of trial runs so that the head of each team can iron out the steps needed to execute the looks.
For me, fashion week is always a bittersweet experience, it really let’s me express myself creatively and sharpens my instinct but it is also very stressful and time consuming leaving me absolutely drained by the end of it… thank goodness it’s only twice a year!”
& Paul Costelloe
Messy half-dos full of texture and volume were spotted at Paul Costelloe’s show and we are living it! The Label M. team backstage went all out with volumising mousse, diffusers, curling wands and wax spray to achieve this youthful, lived in look. Makeup was created by Lisa Potter-Dixon and the Benefit Team.
Braids as seen at Bora Aksu
Created by hairstylist extraordinaire Tina Outen and inspired by Papusza, the gypsy poet, these messy side braids gave us a vintage feeling but with a slightly modern outlook. A bit lived in, a lot nostalgic, we are sure to see more of them popping up on the streets of London. Makeup by Janeen Witherspoon.
& Ashley Isham
Lots of flowing, wavy hair paired with detailed braiding on the side and oversized bows was the perfect Summer look for Ashley Isham’s SS19 collection. One of our favourites this show season!
Waves as seen at Edeline Lee
Photo by Jade Berry
The messy waves & half-dos with lots and lots of volume done by Gary Halliday at Edeline Lee had us crushing hard!
& Malene Oddershede Bach
Romantic and swoon-worthy at Malene Oddershede Bach were these flowing waves by Stefan Bertin.
Natural as seen at Natasha Zinko
Natural Hair has been making a come back, and it was a joy to see throughout the shows. At Natasha Zinko the models wore young, loose, lived in locks.
In summary, natural, messy waves and braids are back, so get ready to save some time in the mornings by allowing less time to tame the frizz, giving you more time for yourself AND all whilst staying on trend, it’s a WIN WIN!