Unrepentant. In your face. Aggressive. This was DB Berdan being unapologetically themselves, playful yet political. Showcasing to a packed-out Freemasons Hall during London Fashion Week in conjunction with Fashion Scout, this collection was a fight back for LGBTQ rights within the fashion industry. Regularly viewed inside the industry simply as token characters, a unique spectacle that should be celebrated in this creative world, however this ideology isn’t stretched into wider society where LGBTQ people are often ridiculed for being themselves. The brand used the slogan “Fuck your double standards” as a continuous printed motif to reinforce this key point.
DB Berdan are huge advocates of genderless clothing and the eradication of heteronormativity, and are trying to build a more welcoming, inclusive and safe space where anyone can feel safe. Diversity is another trait in which the brand prides itself upon, this was shown through a wide range of models who were cast for the show, emerging drag artist Smiley Vyrus both opened and DJ’d the show and all the clothes could have been made for any gender, with each look seamlessly flowing into the next.
Unrepentant. In your face. Aggressive. This was DB Berdan being unapologetically themselvesJake Wright – Features Editor
Photos by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images for DB Berdan
The runway was lined with several road signs creating a sense of chaos, juxtaposing the luxury setting. Showing a total of twenty-six looks the urban streetwear brand dazzled the crowd with a series of experimental prints. Berdan also played with themes of structure, showcasing a few oversized garments and created unique silhouettes through the layering of patchworked denim. Models adorned tape that simply stated “Danger”. The show was also a collaboration with Puma Turkey, best shown through a range of neon sportswear inspired heels.
With the number in the region of seventy-two countries worldwide where being Homosexual is illegal
The show was a call for unity within the LGBTQ community, something that now feels more important than ever. With the recent announcement by the Sultan of Brunei that Homosexuality would now become an act punishable by death through stoning, the Western world responded with shock and despair, however, what the announcement did was reinforce DB Berdan’s point of the collection. The LGBTQ community may well be flaunted and celebrated within the Fashion world but outside of this small pocket of society, there lies a truly terrifying threat that if you choose to live freely you may well end up in jail or worse, stoned to death.
With the number in the region of seventy-two countries worldwide where being Homosexual is illegal, those within the LGBTQ society look to the liberal western world for support. Unfortunately they are now faced with further uncertainty with right wing sensationalist politics growing in the UK since the Brexit vote, it’s hard to place any trust within a government that so clearly doesn’t share the same thoughts. Further West in the USA we see a President slowly stripping away both Women’s and Transgender rights. Countries where we’re supposed to feel safe no longer feel like home and the future shows no sign of this changing.
DB Berdan’s collection showed the power of Art and Fashion where genuine cause and concern provides the inspiration. A message that resonated to so many is a strong statement to make and the brand has recently gained credit from the likes of ASOS where they now sell parts of the collection to a worldwide audience. This is not only huge for an emerging brand commercially, it’s also crucial for their target market to have a brand they can trust like DB Berdan on a platform where they can access so easily. It’s exciting to see what the brand will deliver in the future, until then it’s important that we remember that we’re far stronger together than we are divided.
View the full AW19 Collection HERE