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OFF THE RUNWAY! KAUSHIK VELENDRA AW20

Kaushik Velendra offered us a unique, stage by stage, presentation of his A/W 2020 collection. Showcasing in the Truman Brewery’s discovery lab, the designer transformed the room into a design timeline. We witnessed it all; from workers making fabric, to Ateliers drawing the templates, even the final touches from the stylists before the models ventured onto the runway. This was an insight that we are never shown, it was intriguing to see just how many stages and people are involved to make a collection. 

The designer originates from India, a place where the production of clothing is churned out of factories. It’s also a key distributor of fabrics, without the choice it gives us, we’d likely live in a less colourful world. The West doesn’t see the vital work that goes on in the early stages of production, perhaps this was his way of giving us some insight into the task at hand.

‘it was intriguing to see just how many stages and people are involved to make a collection’

The clothing itself was also a unique perspective. The collection played with the themes of structured tailoring, models would come out in a series of looks, with each further deconstructed than the last. However, Velendra did it in a way that each design was interesting, it made you think about clothes, something formalwear doesn’t often do.

When it comes to formal tailoring, most designers look to the past for inspiration. In this collection, it felt as though Velendra had thought what it could look like in the future. The shapes, how sharply they were cut, felt almost robotic. If Robocop was miraculously the next James Bond, I could imagine him wearing a deconstructed Velendra piece. I think I get this futuristic image from the level of attention to detail, it felt almost inhumane. However, as we saw in the way the show was presented, perhaps Velendra doesn’t operate like other designers. We may have witnessed the beginning of quite a special journey.

‘If Robocop was miraculously the next James Bond, I could imagine him wearing a deconstructed Velendra piece’

See the full collection imagery below, and for more LFWM coverage, stay tuned on our websitesubscribe to our weekly news roundup, and make sure you check out our upcoming Issue 9 which will include a full LFWM AW20 roundup.


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