Poised, considered, calm and controlled would all be words that best describe Bianca Saunders SS20 collection.
A departure from her previous seasons, Saunders decided to provide her take on mens formalwear this season, but used her friends and family opinions of masculinity as a pivot point to introduce elements that are not often seen in this category. We can clearly identify Saunders signature ruching in several of the pieces, and Ceinor Salder also collaborated with the designer offering some light knitwear. The colours, yolk yellows, deep blood reds, simple greys and nudes are carefully considered so as not to attract too much attention, and can easily be played and paired with one another with ease.
Eldon Somers, friend of Saunders, played a large part in the inspiration for the season. His disregard of his power of self expression is something that Saunders found fascinating and wanted to explore further. Eldon doesn’t see that his choice of formal attire in his line of work as a DJ is seen as breaking boundaries and challenging stereotypes.
It is in this thought process that Saunders chose to capture a playful yet intimate snapshot of mens formalwear, but the question still remains, is it challenging enough? I personally think some of the asymmetrical cuts on the trousers, and the ruching in some of the pieces are the most successful parts of the collection, however, the colour palette is lackluster and the tailoring wasn’t anything revolutionary but I do think that it is with small steps that we will see the largest gains, so Saunders way of introducing these small changes to a very traditional and untouched category is the way forward.
Here are the latest photos straight off the runway from Bianca Saunders SS20, at London Fashion Week Mens.
Stay tuned for Issue 6 in July for our editors full LFWM review, but until then, enjoy the imagery…